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	<title>Comments on: PID Controlled Solder Paste Fridge</title>
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	<link>http://mightyohm.com/blog/2008/07/pid/</link>
	<description>Join the resistance.</description>
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		<title>By: Colin</title>
		<link>http://mightyohm.com/blog/2008/07/pid/comment-page-1/#comment-6098</link>
		<dc:creator>Colin</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 04 Jun 2010 15:15:16 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://mightyohm.com/blog/?p=52#comment-6098</guid>
		<description>http://www.alpha.cooksonelectronics.com/products/paste/solder-paste.asp</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><a href="http://www.alpha.cooksonelectronics.com/products/paste/solder-paste.asp" rel="nofollow">http://www.alpha.cooksonelectronics.com/products/paste/solder-paste.asp</a></p>
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		<title>By: Best mini fridge with digital thermostat? &#171; adafruit industries blog</title>
		<link>http://mightyohm.com/blog/2008/07/pid/comment-page-1/#comment-5764</link>
		<dc:creator>Best mini fridge with digital thermostat? &#171; adafruit industries blog</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 02 Feb 2010 14:18:16 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://mightyohm.com/blog/?p=52#comment-5764</guid>
		<description>[...] PID Controlled Solder Paste Fridge $20 solder paste fridge!  Filed under: random &#8212; by adafruit, posted February 2, 2010 at 9:16 [...]</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>[...] PID Controlled Solder Paste Fridge $20 solder paste fridge!  Filed under: random &#8212; by adafruit, posted February 2, 2010 at 9:16 [...]</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Jeff</title>
		<link>http://mightyohm.com/blog/2008/07/pid/comment-page-1/#comment-4547</link>
		<dc:creator>Jeff</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 24 May 2009 18:09:14 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://mightyohm.com/blog/?p=52#comment-4547</guid>
		<description>JSKC -

The Peltier I am using would definitely be underpowered.  It takes a while just to cool down the small volume I have in my cooler.

There are much higher power Peltier coolers around (check &lt;a href=&quot;http://search.ebay.com/search/search.dll?sofocus=bs&amp;sbrftog=1&amp;dfsp=32&amp;satitle=peltier+cooler&amp;sacat=-1%26catref%3DC6&amp;sargn=-1%26saslc%3D2&amp;sadis=200&amp;fpos=ZIP%2FPostal&amp;sabfmts=1&amp;saobfmts=insif&amp;ftrt=1&amp;ftrv=1&amp;saprclo=&amp;saprchi=&amp;fsop=32%26fsoo%3D2&amp;fgtp=&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;eBay&lt;/a&gt;), one of those might be a better match for your application.  The construction of the cooling chamber will be as important as the selection of the Peltier.  If the chamber doesn&#039;t thermally insulate the contents very well, the Peltier cooler will need to work much harder to maintain your target temperature.  You&#039;ll have to experiment a bit to see what is realistic, unfortunately I don&#039;t have a simple answer for you.  You might look at gutting a mini-fridge - the new ones are Peltier while the older ones are compressor style.  Either type might be a good start to your project.

Most PID controllers have an auto tune feature to calibrate the PID loop, but since I&#039;m using simple on-off control I didn&#039;t need to mess with that.  I don&#039;t think there is an option to calibrate the temperature reading - they come calibrated from the factory.

Different PID controllers work with different sensors.  The most common sensor is the type-K thermocouple.  Type-K thermocouples are readily available from many sources, such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://mcmaster.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;McMaster-Carr&lt;/a&gt;.  Some of the better PID controllers support several flavors of thermocouple (each has it&#039;s own optimum temperature range), and some even support RTD&#039;s as well, but I have never used an RTD in a project before.  They operate on different principles and are generally more expensive.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>JSKC -</p>
<p>The Peltier I am using would definitely be underpowered.  It takes a while just to cool down the small volume I have in my cooler.</p>
<p>There are much higher power Peltier coolers around (check <a href="http://search.ebay.com/search/search.dll?sofocus=bs&#038;sbrftog=1&#038;dfsp=32&#038;satitle=peltier+cooler&#038;sacat=-1%26catref%3DC6&#038;sargn=-1%26saslc%3D2&#038;sadis=200&#038;fpos=ZIP%2FPostal&#038;sabfmts=1&#038;saobfmts=insif&#038;ftrt=1&#038;ftrv=1&#038;saprclo=&#038;saprchi=&#038;fsop=32%26fsoo%3D2&#038;fgtp=" rel="nofollow">eBay</a>), one of those might be a better match for your application.  The construction of the cooling chamber will be as important as the selection of the Peltier.  If the chamber doesn&#8217;t thermally insulate the contents very well, the Peltier cooler will need to work much harder to maintain your target temperature.  You&#8217;ll have to experiment a bit to see what is realistic, unfortunately I don&#8217;t have a simple answer for you.  You might look at gutting a mini-fridge &#8211; the new ones are Peltier while the older ones are compressor style.  Either type might be a good start to your project.</p>
<p>Most PID controllers have an auto tune feature to calibrate the PID loop, but since I&#8217;m using simple on-off control I didn&#8217;t need to mess with that.  I don&#8217;t think there is an option to calibrate the temperature reading &#8211; they come calibrated from the factory.</p>
<p>Different PID controllers work with different sensors.  The most common sensor is the type-K thermocouple.  Type-K thermocouples are readily available from many sources, such as <a href="http://mcmaster.com" rel="nofollow">McMaster-Carr</a>.  Some of the better PID controllers support several flavors of thermocouple (each has it&#8217;s own optimum temperature range), and some even support RTD&#8217;s as well, but I have never used an RTD in a project before.  They operate on different principles and are generally more expensive.</p>
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		<title>By: JSKC</title>
		<link>http://mightyohm.com/blog/2008/07/pid/comment-page-1/#comment-4542</link>
		<dc:creator>JSKC</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 22 May 2009 15:54:13 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://mightyohm.com/blog/?p=52#comment-4542</guid>
		<description>I&#039;m considering making a peltier fridge in order to control beer fermentation temperatures. The enclosure will be much bigger than your cooler, about 21 cubic feet (2*3*3.5). I was wondering, as I have no experience with the peltier, whether, with appropriate cooling on the hot side, if you thought one peltier would be sufficient to keep the fridge&#039;s temperature between 60 and 70 degrees F. I was also wondering if and how you calibrated the PID. Lastly, can the PID work with any temperature sensor?</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I&#8217;m considering making a peltier fridge in order to control beer fermentation temperatures. The enclosure will be much bigger than your cooler, about 21 cubic feet (2*3*3.5). I was wondering, as I have no experience with the peltier, whether, with appropriate cooling on the hot side, if you thought one peltier would be sufficient to keep the fridge&#8217;s temperature between 60 and 70 degrees F. I was also wondering if and how you calibrated the PID. Lastly, can the PID work with any temperature sensor?</p>
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		<title>By: Jeff</title>
		<link>http://mightyohm.com/blog/2008/07/pid/comment-page-1/#comment-945</link>
		<dc:creator>Jeff</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 20 Oct 2008 20:22:38 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://mightyohm.com/blog/?p=52#comment-945</guid>
		<description>Kevin,

I&#039;m pretty confident it can be done - after all many newer mini-fridges use Peltier coolers instead of freon and a compressor.

As far as energy efficiency goes, I&#039;m not sure, but I&#039;d be interested to know if you find out.  The number of coolers likely depends on the thermal efficiency of the barrel - how much insulation there is - and how often you intend to open the barrel - too few coolers and it will take forever to get down to temperature again.

I would start small and work up to larger coolers as necessary.  The most important thing is to ensure that you can adequately remove heat from the hot side of the Peltier coolers, otherwise the efficiency will drop and the Peltier junctions can overheat and be damaged.

Good luck!
Jeff</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Kevin,</p>
<p>I&#8217;m pretty confident it can be done &#8211; after all many newer mini-fridges use Peltier coolers instead of freon and a compressor.</p>
<p>As far as energy efficiency goes, I&#8217;m not sure, but I&#8217;d be interested to know if you find out.  The number of coolers likely depends on the thermal efficiency of the barrel &#8211; how much insulation there is &#8211; and how often you intend to open the barrel &#8211; too few coolers and it will take forever to get down to temperature again.</p>
<p>I would start small and work up to larger coolers as necessary.  The most important thing is to ensure that you can adequately remove heat from the hot side of the Peltier coolers, otherwise the efficiency will drop and the Peltier junctions can overheat and be damaged.</p>
<p>Good luck!<br />
Jeff</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Kevin Miller</title>
		<link>http://mightyohm.com/blog/2008/07/pid/comment-page-1/#comment-568</link>
		<dc:creator>Kevin Miller</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 12 Oct 2008 20:25:30 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://mightyohm.com/blog/?p=52#comment-568</guid>
		<description>This is off topic a bit, but I have a question in regards to turning a oak barrel into a fridge.  Would it be possible to use a (or several) Peltier thermoelectric cooler(s) to cool an insulated barrel?  Would this be too energy intensive? How can I calculate how big a cooler/how many coolers I would need?

Thanks</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>This is off topic a bit, but I have a question in regards to turning a oak barrel into a fridge.  Would it be possible to use a (or several) Peltier thermoelectric cooler(s) to cool an insulated barrel?  Would this be too energy intensive? How can I calculate how big a cooler/how many coolers I would need?</p>
<p>Thanks</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Jeff</title>
		<link>http://mightyohm.com/blog/2008/07/pid/comment-page-1/#comment-58</link>
		<dc:creator>Jeff</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 04 Sep 2008 21:34:01 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://mightyohm.com/blog/?p=52#comment-58</guid>
		<description>The value is not critical at all.  1k was the first resistor I tried and it worked so I stuck with it.  Anything from 1k-100k would probably be fine.  Below 1k you start to draw a lot of current from the PID controller.  1k draws 15mA which is pretty small and within the ratings of the PID controller.

I&#039;m glad you got your setup prototype working, good luck with the rest of it.  If you don&#039;t mind me asking what are you using this for?  +-0.2 degrees is a pretty tight window.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>The value is not critical at all.  1k was the first resistor I tried and it worked so I stuck with it.  Anything from 1k-100k would probably be fine.  Below 1k you start to draw a lot of current from the PID controller.  1k draws 15mA which is pretty small and within the ratings of the PID controller.</p>
<p>I&#8217;m glad you got your setup prototype working, good luck with the rest of it.  If you don&#8217;t mind me asking what are you using this for?  +-0.2 degrees is a pretty tight window.</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: William Rossignol</title>
		<link>http://mightyohm.com/blog/2008/07/pid/comment-page-1/#comment-57</link>
		<dc:creator>William Rossignol</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 04 Sep 2008 20:00:26 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://mightyohm.com/blog/?p=52#comment-57</guid>
		<description>Yes it does. I bread boarded the circuit and it works well. Just waiting on my controller. I would like to thank you for all of you expertise. It solved a major problem. Got one more question for Ya. Why did you choose a 1K ohm resistor for the bleed resistor?</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Yes it does. I bread boarded the circuit and it works well. Just waiting on my controller. I would like to thank you for all of you expertise. It solved a major problem. Got one more question for Ya. Why did you choose a 1K ohm resistor for the bleed resistor?</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Jeff</title>
		<link>http://mightyohm.com/blog/2008/07/pid/comment-page-1/#comment-56</link>
		<dc:creator>Jeff</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 04 Sep 2008 15:26:39 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://mightyohm.com/blog/?p=52#comment-56</guid>
		<description>Here is the same schematic as before but with the grounds explicitly drawn.  Does this answer your question? 

&lt;img src=&quot;http://mightyohm.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2008/09/pid_switch2.png&quot; alt=&quot;Schematic&quot; /&gt;</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Here is the same schematic as before but with the grounds explicitly drawn.  Does this answer your question? </p>
<p><img src="http://mightyohm.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2008/09/pid_switch2.png" alt="Schematic" /></p>
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		<title>By: William Rossignol</title>
		<link>http://mightyohm.com/blog/2008/07/pid/comment-page-1/#comment-55</link>
		<dc:creator>William Rossignol</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 04 Sep 2008 13:33:18 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://mightyohm.com/blog/?p=52#comment-55</guid>
		<description>Ground side of my 12V supply.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Ground side of my 12V supply.</p>
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