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	<title>Comments on: DIY PID Controlled Soldering Hotplate</title>
	<atom:link href="http://mightyohm.com/blog/2009/01/diy-pid-controlled-soldering-hotplate/feed/" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" />
	<link>http://mightyohm.com/blog/2009/01/diy-pid-controlled-soldering-hotplate/</link>
	<description>Join the resistance.</description>
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		<title>By: MightyOhm &#187; Blog Archive &#187; Issue with CD101 PID Controller stop mode</title>
		<link>http://mightyohm.com/blog/2009/01/diy-pid-controlled-soldering-hotplate/comment-page-1/#comment-8659</link>
		<dc:creator>MightyOhm &#187; Blog Archive &#187; Issue with CD101 PID Controller stop mode</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 20 Jan 2011 06:41:18 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://mightyohm.com/blog/?p=1010#comment-8659</guid>
		<description>[...] The CD101 is an inexpensive (under $40) PID controller sold by Sure Electronics. Aside from the incomplete documentation that is shipped with the unit, I&#8217;m pretty happy with this controller. I&#8217;m planning to use it to replace the failed PID controller that controls my soldering hotplate. [...]</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>[...] The CD101 is an inexpensive (under $40) PID controller sold by Sure Electronics. Aside from the incomplete documentation that is shipped with the unit, I&#8217;m pretty happy with this controller. I&#8217;m planning to use it to replace the failed PID controller that controls my soldering hotplate. [...]</p>
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		<title>By: MightyOhm &#187; Blog Archive &#187; Changes to the MightyOhm Wiki</title>
		<link>http://mightyohm.com/blog/2009/01/diy-pid-controlled-soldering-hotplate/comment-page-1/#comment-7939</link>
		<dc:creator>MightyOhm &#187; Blog Archive &#187; Changes to the MightyOhm Wiki</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 11 Dec 2010 21:47:07 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://mightyohm.com/blog/?p=1010#comment-7939</guid>
		<description>[...] Last night I added a list of cheap PID controllers to the wiki page for my DIY PID-controlled Soldering Hotplate. [...]</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>[...] Last night I added a list of cheap PID controllers to the wiki page for my DIY PID-controlled Soldering Hotplate. [...]</p>
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		<title>By: Jeff</title>
		<link>http://mightyohm.com/blog/2009/01/diy-pid-controlled-soldering-hotplate/comment-page-1/#comment-7683</link>
		<dc:creator>Jeff</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 25 Nov 2010 19:39:16 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://mightyohm.com/blog/?p=1010#comment-7683</guid>
		<description>I used ceramic insulators to insulate the hotplate from the aluminum base, and plastic feet on the aluminum plate to insulate it from the bench.

If I was going to do it again, I would take a thin sheet of stainless steel and attach it to the SIDES of the hotplate with stainless spacers and hardware, then attach the stainless sheet to the base.  I found that the ceramic insulators conduct quite a bit of heat, hopefully the thin stainless would conduct less.  This is how I have seen others make hotplates, and it seems to work quite well.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I used ceramic insulators to insulate the hotplate from the aluminum base, and plastic feet on the aluminum plate to insulate it from the bench.</p>
<p>If I was going to do it again, I would take a thin sheet of stainless steel and attach it to the SIDES of the hotplate with stainless spacers and hardware, then attach the stainless sheet to the base.  I found that the ceramic insulators conduct quite a bit of heat, hopefully the thin stainless would conduct less.  This is how I have seen others make hotplates, and it seems to work quite well.</p>
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		<title>By: David Leggett</title>
		<link>http://mightyohm.com/blog/2009/01/diy-pid-controlled-soldering-hotplate/comment-page-1/#comment-7677</link>
		<dc:creator>David Leggett</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 25 Nov 2010 13:50:22 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://mightyohm.com/blog/?p=1010#comment-7677</guid>
		<description>I am thinking of building something similar to this hotplate. I am wondering what material you have used to insulate it from the bench. So far i have considered using calcium silicate to build a stand but your unit looks a bit more elegant!

Nice work though, hope to hear you on The Am Hour again some time.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I am thinking of building something similar to this hotplate. I am wondering what material you have used to insulate it from the bench. So far i have considered using calcium silicate to build a stand but your unit looks a bit more elegant!</p>
<p>Nice work though, hope to hear you on The Am Hour again some time.</p>
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		<title>By: Electronics-Lab.com Blog &#187; Blog Archive &#187; PID Controlled Soldering Hotplate</title>
		<link>http://mightyohm.com/blog/2009/01/diy-pid-controlled-soldering-hotplate/comment-page-1/#comment-6788</link>
		<dc:creator>Electronics-Lab.com Blog &#187; Blog Archive &#187; PID Controlled Soldering Hotplate</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 20 Sep 2010 13:11:55 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://mightyohm.com/blog/?p=1010#comment-6788</guid>
		<description>[...] Controlled Soldering Hotplate &#8211; [Link]   Tags: Hotplate, PID, Soldering   Filed in Control, Soldering  &#124; 3 views  No Comments [...]</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>[...] Controlled Soldering Hotplate &#8211; [Link]   Tags: Hotplate, PID, Soldering   Filed in Control, Soldering  | 3 views  No Comments [...]</p>
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		<title>By: Eko Yulianto</title>
		<link>http://mightyohm.com/blog/2009/01/diy-pid-controlled-soldering-hotplate/comment-page-1/#comment-5633</link>
		<dc:creator>Eko Yulianto</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 24 Dec 2009 13:10:10 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://mightyohm.com/blog/?p=1010#comment-5633</guid>
		<description>To Chris Taylor :
If you want to use Triac, I recommended you to use optocoupler with zero crossing ability, place an optocoupler before triac will isolate the main power line and the phase control circuit, you can use MOC3041.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>To Chris Taylor :<br />
If you want to use Triac, I recommended you to use optocoupler with zero crossing ability, place an optocoupler before triac will isolate the main power line and the phase control circuit, you can use MOC3041.</p>
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		<title>By: Jeff</title>
		<link>http://mightyohm.com/blog/2009/01/diy-pid-controlled-soldering-hotplate/comment-page-1/#comment-5589</link>
		<dc:creator>Jeff</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 12 Dec 2009 02:11:11 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://mightyohm.com/blog/?p=1010#comment-5589</guid>
		<description>Chris,

The solid state relay only switches once per second.  This setting is configurable in the PID controller setup.

I haven&#039;t had an issue with the relay or the ability of the PID to control the temperature, so I&#039;ve been happy with 1 Hz so far.  

If you want to get fancy and use proportional control, you could use a triac instead and continuously vary the duty cycle of the heater.  This is the recommend way to control cartridge heaters for max life, but I decided that heater life wasn&#039;t going to be an issue and opted for the simpler solution instead.

If you decide to implement a proportional control please share your results!
Jeff</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Chris,</p>
<p>The solid state relay only switches once per second.  This setting is configurable in the PID controller setup.</p>
<p>I haven&#8217;t had an issue with the relay or the ability of the PID to control the temperature, so I&#8217;ve been happy with 1 Hz so far.  </p>
<p>If you want to get fancy and use proportional control, you could use a triac instead and continuously vary the duty cycle of the heater.  This is the recommend way to control cartridge heaters for max life, but I decided that heater life wasn&#8217;t going to be an issue and opted for the simpler solution instead.</p>
<p>If you decide to implement a proportional control please share your results!<br />
Jeff</p>
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		<title>By: Chris Taylor</title>
		<link>http://mightyohm.com/blog/2009/01/diy-pid-controlled-soldering-hotplate/comment-page-1/#comment-5588</link>
		<dc:creator>Chris Taylor</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 11 Dec 2009 05:20:39 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://mightyohm.com/blog/?p=1010#comment-5588</guid>
		<description>Great work with your setup! It has inspired me to try something similar with an old laboratory hot plate, fan,  k-type thermocouple, and uC (so I can do temperature profiling).

My one question for you is how well does the ssd relay work? Have you had trouble with them burning out? From what I have read they burn out if switched too fast (It isn&#039;t recommended to switch faster than 1Hz) and it seems like the PID controller would cause this. Is this completely off base?

Thanks!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Great work with your setup! It has inspired me to try something similar with an old laboratory hot plate, fan,  k-type thermocouple, and uC (so I can do temperature profiling).</p>
<p>My one question for you is how well does the ssd relay work? Have you had trouble with them burning out? From what I have read they burn out if switched too fast (It isn&#8217;t recommended to switch faster than 1Hz) and it seems like the PID controller would cause this. Is this completely off base?</p>
<p>Thanks!</p>
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		<title>By: Jeff</title>
		<link>http://mightyohm.com/blog/2009/01/diy-pid-controlled-soldering-hotplate/comment-page-1/#comment-5329</link>
		<dc:creator>Jeff</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 17 Oct 2009 17:39:06 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://mightyohm.com/blog/?p=1010#comment-5329</guid>
		<description>I have never used a PT100 sensor before.  I don&#039;t see any reason why it wouldn&#039;t work, provided that your PID controller supports RTD sensors.  Thermocouples are cheap and easy to work with, so I used them instead.

I am not using a temperature profile.  The hotplate stays at a constant temperature.  I just place boards onto the hotplate and let them warm up,  The thermal resistance and mass of the board determines the profile.  Larger boards can take a long time, and boards without copper on the bottom take longer too.  Not the most elegant setup, but it works great.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I have never used a PT100 sensor before.  I don&#8217;t see any reason why it wouldn&#8217;t work, provided that your PID controller supports RTD sensors.  Thermocouples are cheap and easy to work with, so I used them instead.</p>
<p>I am not using a temperature profile.  The hotplate stays at a constant temperature.  I just place boards onto the hotplate and let them warm up,  The thermal resistance and mass of the board determines the profile.  Larger boards can take a long time, and boards without copper on the bottom take longer too.  Not the most elegant setup, but it works great.</p>
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		<title>By: Eko Yulianto</title>
		<link>http://mightyohm.com/blog/2009/01/diy-pid-controlled-soldering-hotplate/comment-page-1/#comment-5322</link>
		<dc:creator>Eko Yulianto</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 15 Oct 2009 12:10:55 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://mightyohm.com/blog/?p=1010#comment-5322</guid>
		<description>Dear Jeff,
I&#039;m confusing for the sensor, I decided to make plate with 180mm x 120mm dimension, but my friend says to me for using PT100 not Thermocouple, please give me suggestions. And can you give me the profile for soldering profile, I&#039;m also confused for the profile</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Dear Jeff,<br />
I&#8217;m confusing for the sensor, I decided to make plate with 180mm x 120mm dimension, but my friend says to me for using PT100 not Thermocouple, please give me suggestions. And can you give me the profile for soldering profile, I&#8217;m also confused for the profile</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		<title>By: Assembling the MakerBot CupCake Stepper Controller (or My First Reflow Solder) &#171; Keith&#8217;s Electronics Blog</title>
		<link>http://mightyohm.com/blog/2009/01/diy-pid-controlled-soldering-hotplate/comment-page-1/#comment-5195</link>
		<dc:creator>Assembling the MakerBot CupCake Stepper Controller (or My First Reflow Solder) &#171; Keith&#8217;s Electronics Blog</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 06 Sep 2009 16:55:39 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://mightyohm.com/blog/?p=1010#comment-5195</guid>
		<description>[...] diffuses across more of the width of the block before making it to the top. Jeff got this right on his original DIY hotplate on the first [...]</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>[...] diffuses across more of the width of the block before making it to the top. Jeff got this right on his original DIY hotplate on the first [...]</p>
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		<title>By: Jeff</title>
		<link>http://mightyohm.com/blog/2009/01/diy-pid-controlled-soldering-hotplate/comment-page-1/#comment-5055</link>
		<dc:creator>Jeff</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 04 Aug 2009 20:03:09 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://mightyohm.com/blog/?p=1010#comment-5055</guid>
		<description>Eko,

You might want to check out the Arduino PID Library:
http://www.arduino.cc/playground/Code/PIDLibrary

There may be other PID projects for Arduino or the AVR as well, but that looks like a good starting point!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Eko,</p>
<p>You might want to check out the Arduino PID Library:<br />
<a href="http://www.arduino.cc/playground/Code/PIDLibrary" rel="nofollow">http://www.arduino.cc/playground/Code/PIDLibrary</a></p>
<p>There may be other PID projects for Arduino or the AVR as well, but that looks like a good starting point!</p>
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		<title>By: Eko Yulianto</title>
		<link>http://mightyohm.com/blog/2009/01/diy-pid-controlled-soldering-hotplate/comment-page-1/#comment-5050</link>
		<dc:creator>Eko Yulianto</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 04 Aug 2009 14:39:21 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://mightyohm.com/blog/?p=1010#comment-5050</guid>
		<description>Thanks for your aswers, That is good suggestions since difficult find references about DIY reflow skillet or Hot Plate reflow soldering. I would like to using a microcontroller for the PID controller, because I poor for the money, if I buy a Industrial PID Controller. I am college student in mechatronic and interested in SMT, I am very grateful for your advices, I hope you give me another suggestions for my questions in the future.
Pardon me for my ugly english :-)</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Thanks for your aswers, That is good suggestions since difficult find references about DIY reflow skillet or Hot Plate reflow soldering. I would like to using a microcontroller for the PID controller, because I poor for the money, if I buy a Industrial PID Controller. I am college student in mechatronic and interested in SMT, I am very grateful for your advices, I hope you give me another suggestions for my questions in the future.<br />
Pardon me for my ugly english <img src='http://mightyohm.com/blog/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif' alt=':-)' class='wp-smiley' /> </p>
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		<title>By: Jeff</title>
		<link>http://mightyohm.com/blog/2009/01/diy-pid-controlled-soldering-hotplate/comment-page-1/#comment-5046</link>
		<dc:creator>Jeff</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 04 Aug 2009 01:59:52 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://mightyohm.com/blog/?p=1010#comment-5046</guid>
		<description>Eko - It should be no problem to scale up the design.  I would use two heaters instead of one, maybe 250W or 300W each.  I&#039;m not sure what spacing is optimal, but I would probably place one heater 1/4 or 1/3 of the length across the long dimension of the block, and the other heater at 3/4 or 2/3 of the length.  A wider separation is probably better since the center of the hotplate will be heated by both elements, and you want to try to flatten the heat distribution across the block.  The length of each heater cartridge should match the short dimension of the block.  Cartridge heaters are available in all shapes and sizes so it should be no problem to find some suitable for your application!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Eko &#8211; It should be no problem to scale up the design.  I would use two heaters instead of one, maybe 250W or 300W each.  I&#8217;m not sure what spacing is optimal, but I would probably place one heater 1/4 or 1/3 of the length across the long dimension of the block, and the other heater at 3/4 or 2/3 of the length.  A wider separation is probably better since the center of the hotplate will be heated by both elements, and you want to try to flatten the heat distribution across the block.  The length of each heater cartridge should match the short dimension of the block.  Cartridge heaters are available in all shapes and sizes so it should be no problem to find some suitable for your application!</p>
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		<title>By: Eko Yulianto</title>
		<link>http://mightyohm.com/blog/2009/01/diy-pid-controlled-soldering-hotplate/comment-page-1/#comment-5034</link>
		<dc:creator>Eko Yulianto</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 02 Aug 2009 13:41:45 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://mightyohm.com/blog/?p=1010#comment-5034</guid>
		<description>Hey iam Eko from Indonesia! this is awesome projects, your hot plate size is 4&quot; x 3&quot; x 1&quot;, I think I want to make a bigger one, that can be use for euro card 160mm x 100mm, can you give me some suggestion for that! please? 
is like, should i use more than 1 heater, maybe 2 pieces, according to the size of the board?</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hey iam Eko from Indonesia! this is awesome projects, your hot plate size is 4&#8243; x 3&#8243; x 1&#8243;, I think I want to make a bigger one, that can be use for euro card 160mm x 100mm, can you give me some suggestion for that! please?<br />
is like, should i use more than 1 heater, maybe 2 pieces, according to the size of the board?</p>
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