{"id":4664,"date":"2012-02-09T16:52:40","date_gmt":"2012-02-09T22:52:40","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/mightyohm.com\/blog\/?p=4664"},"modified":"2015-09-26T11:10:58","modified_gmt":"2015-09-26T18:10:58","slug":"pimp-your-geiger-add-a-superbright-led","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/mightyohm.com\/blog\/2012\/02\/pimp-your-geiger-add-a-superbright-led\/","title":{"rendered":"Pimp your Geiger: Add a superbright LED"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"Pimped<\/a><\/p>\n

Want to give your MightyOhm Geiger Counter Kit<\/a> a little more sparkle?<\/p>\n

Replace the ordinary indicator that comes with the kit with something special – a superbright LED!<\/p>\n

Here’s how:<\/p>\n

<\/p>\n

Step 1: Order some really bright LEDs<\/h4>\n

Superbright LEDs are available from most common electronics distributors, such as Jameco, Digikey, Mouser, etc. But instead of spending hours trying to find the LED you want in a catalog, I highly recommend ordering your LEDs from Evil Mad Science<\/a>. EMSL sells curiously bright LEDs organized by color.<\/a> I recommend their “5mm, Clear lens” LEDs in red, green, or blue.<\/p>\n

You’ll also need a new dropping resistor R11 to go along with your LED choice. Some values of R11 for various LED colors are given below. If you see “0 Ohms” listed, you can either use an actual zero ohm resistor (yes, they exist), or a short piece of wire. Resistors are available anywhere electronic components are sold – I recommend a quick trip to Radio Shack<\/a>. You might have to buy an assortment of resistors<\/a> to get the value you want, but that’s not so bad – having lots of resistors around is always a good thing!<\/p>\n

Here are some suggested resistor values to go along with various super and ultra-bright LEDs:<\/p>\n\n\n <\/p>\n\n\n\n\n
LED Color<\/th>\nForward Voltage (Vf)<\/th>\nSeries Resistor (R11)<\/th>\n<\/tr>\n
Red<\/td>\n1.9-2.1V<\/td>\n47 Ohms<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Green<\/td>\n3.0-3.2V<\/td>\n0 Ohms<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Blue<\/td>\n3.0-3.2V<\/td>\n0 Ohms<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n

Step 2: Desolder the existing LED (LED1) and resistor R11<\/h4>\n

\"Closeup<\/a><\/p>\n

Desolder the LED and resistor R11. To do this, you’ll need desoldering braid<\/a> (available at any electronics store), and maybe a desoldering pump\/solder-sucker<\/a>. If you have a fancy desoldering tool<\/a>\"\" you should probably use it, it will make your life much easier.<\/p>\n

Make sure to switch off and remove the AA batteries from your kit before you start removing components.<\/p>\n

You can desolder the LED by heating the legs with your soldering iron and pulling on the LED gently with a pair of needle-nose pliers in a back-and-forth motion. Or, clip the leads under the LED, heat each one with your soldering iron, and pull it out of the PCB. R11 can be removed in a similar fashion.<\/p>\n

After you have removed the components, use the desoldering braid or solder-sucker to clean out the holes in the PCB. You want the holes to be completely free of solder so that you can insert the new LED and resistor.<\/p>\n

Step 3: Solder in your new superbright LED and resistor<\/h4>\n

\"Superbright<\/a><\/p>\n

Simply insert the new resistor and LED into the holes in the PCB and solder<\/a> the terminals. Make sure the flat spot on the side of the LED lines up with the silkscreen markings on the PCB. Also, the longer lead should go into the hole marked +. The resistor can go in either way.<\/p>\n

Clip off the excess leads (watch your eyes), and you’re done.<\/p>\n

Step 4: Behold your pimped geiger counter!<\/h4>\n

Place the AA batteries back into the battery holder, turn on the power switch, and behold<\/strong> your pimped geiger counter!<\/p>\n

If you ever get tired of the ‘pimped out’ look, you can always change LED colors (mind the dropping resistor) or go back to the original standard red LED. Or maybe you can talk to these guys…<\/p>\n